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Risotto alla milanese

Saffron risotto from Milan, started in butter and beef bone marrow and finished with more butter and Parmesan. This version, from SBS Food's Feast magazine, serves six and uses Carnaroli rice.

Fine-ink and watercolour illustration of risotto alla milanese on white.
Editorial illustration of the documented recipe; not a photograph of a kitchen-tested result.
Servings
6
Preparation
15 min
Cooking
30 min
Total
45 min
Difficulty
Moderate

Equipment

  • Heavy-based saucepan for the risotto
  • Second saucepan to keep the stock hot; ladle
  • Small knife to take the marrow from the bones; wooden spoon
Servings6

Ingredients

  • Risotto

  • To finish

Shopping list

Method

  1. Push the marrow out of the bones with a small knife, chop it finely and set it aside.

  2. Soak the saffron in the 2 tablespoons of hot water for 5 minutes, pressing it against the bowl with the back of a spoon to release the colour.

    Timer · 5 min5:00
  3. Bring the stock and the 375 ml water to the boil, then take off the heat and cover to keep hot.

  4. Melt the 20 g butter in the heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the marrow and stir for 1 minute until it melts. Add the onion, lower the heat and cook 4 minutes until soft.

    Why Marrow and butter are the fat of the Milanese version; the onion must soften without colouring.

    Timer · 5 min5:00
  5. Add the rice and stir for 4 minutes, until the grains start to turn translucent.

    Why Toasting coats each grain in fat before the liquid goes in.

    Timer · 4 min4:00
  6. Add a ladle of hot stock and stir for 3 minutes until absorbed. Add the rest of the stock and cook 10 minutes, stirring now and then.

    Timer · 13 min13:00
  7. Stir in the saffron and its water and cook 5 minutes more, until the stock is absorbed and the rice is al dente.

    Timer · 5 min5:00
  8. Off the heat, stir in the 60 g butter and the Parmesan. Season, scatter with parsley if you like and serve with more Parmesan.

    Why Beating in cold butter and cheese at the end (the mantecatura) makes the risotto creamy.

To drink & serve with

  • The source suggests a dry Italian-style white such as Trebbiano.

Substitutions

  • Beef marrow → Leave it out and use 20 g more butter. The flavour is plainer.
  • Carnaroli → Arborio or Vialone Nano.

Common mistakes

  • Letting the onion brown: it turns the risotto bitter and dark.
  • Using cold stock: it stops the cooking every time you add it.
  • Cooking past al dente: the grains burst and turn to paste. Taste from 15 minutes.

Storage & reheating

Best eaten at once. Leftovers keep 1 day in the fridge and can be shaped into balls, crumbed and fried.

Safety

Allergens: milk (butter, Parmesan). Many stocks contain celery: check the label.

Allergens

Milk · Celery

Check labels: stock, bacon and sauces can contain further allergens.

Dietary

gluten-free

A Milanese dish

SBS Food presents this recipe, first printed in Feast magazine, as a traditional dish of Milan. It keeps two features that mark the Milanese version: bone marrow melted with the butter at the start, and saffron, which gives the yellow colour.

The recipe uses no wine, and it adds most of the stock in one go after the first ladle rather than ladle by ladle. The result is the same kind of loose, creamy risotto, but you need to watch the pan in the last minutes.

[1]

Toasting, saffron and the finish

The rice is stirred in the hot fat for 4 minutes before any liquid goes in, until the grains start to turn translucent. The saffron is soaked in a little hot water and pressed to release its colour, then added near the end so its aroma stays fresh.

The last step is the creaming: off the heat, 60 g butter and the Parmesan are beaten in. The source prefers Carnaroli for a creamier result and allows Arborio.

[1]

How it connects

Place

  • origin Milan In preparation

Rice

Recipe

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Sources

  1. Risotto alla Milanese — SBS Food (Angela Nahas; first published in Feast magazine, issue 9, p. 84), 2015 verified

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